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#Surfer 12 ws movie#
#Surfer 12 ws professional#

We live in the same zone but never see each other – I miss you Bob-o! I travelled with him when he was a kid, but I haven’t seen him in years.

I’d love to share a few waves with…(alive or dead) Bobby Martinez.

I wish that I could… take back the last thing that I said to Donnie Solomon before he drowned at Waimea.

Trump won’t find us there…Ĭhris Malloy flying along the high line somewhere in the Mentawaii Islands, shot by Jeff Johnson for Patagonia, Inc. I think it’d be a blast to go goof around in Russia for a few weeks and maybe find a wave or two. With the right wind there is potential for some fun surf there.

I still want to travel to… I’ve been checking out the bathymetry of Lake Baikal in Siberia.

There was a shark chasing a deer through the tide pools and tiger tracks on the beach! It was the first of seventeen trips to Indo, and I’ll never forget it. I’d done a lot of Baja trips throughout the 80’s with my family, but Java was a whole new experience.

My first overseas surf trip was to… G-Land with Matt Warshaw, Akila Aipa and my brother Keith in around 1990.

Home is… estranged – not from family, just from home.

Surfing to me is… whatever Quiksilver says it is.

I remember rubbing Paraffin wax on the deck (which comes in blocks and is used for making candles). He started us out on the boards that he was riding at the time, which were mid-60’s longboards he never switched to shortboards. My earliest memory of surfing… is my dad pushing me into a wave when I was 5 years old.

#Surfer 12 ws movie#

We caught up with him whilst he toured his latest movie The Fisherman’s Son and put the “Me, Myself and Surfing” questions to him:Ĭhris Malloy, Cornwall, UK. This down-to-earth attitude belies the fact that he’s been incredibly influential for a generation of surfers (be it in front of the camera or behind it) and to top it all off, he’s a real nice guy. You add that lot together and you get a very busy and productive man, however the impression that you get from Chris upon meeting him is that he’s just a regular rancher with a love of surfing. The eldest of the three Malloy brothers, Chris lives on a working ranch in Central California with his wife and kids not too far from the headquarters of Patagonia where he also works as a designer, product tester and ambassador for their surf program.

#Surfer 12 ws professional#

Chris Malloy is a surfing polymath an accomplished professional surfer and big wave rider, he can also list some of the most influential surf films of the last 15 years amongst his achievements as a filmmaker (he’s made more than twenty).